For us to truly set our dogs up for a long-term success, it is important that we engage their brains and let them learn the joys of outdoors in their way! For plenty of dogs, a good game of fetch is just about the best thing in the world (aside from snacks). Although gentle games of chase are great fun for physically exercising your dog, it doesn’t involve a huge amount of thought.

More common in energetic or the more stubborn breeds (terriers, we’re looking at you), fetch can start to become less of a game of retrieving and more a routine of fixation and high emotion. If this sounds like your dog, we hate to break it to you, but it may be time to put that tennis ball away for a couple of weeks. Don’t worry, we’re not saying that it needs to gather dust in the cupboard for the next few years, but the aim of the game here is to establish a routine of engaging your dog’s brain on a regular basis. A Decompression Walk is all about getting blood flowing to their brain and building up their own ‘I need to figure this out alone’ process.

If your dog thinks tennis balls are far too ‘fetching’, we’d recommend limiting this to a relaxed game in the garden after a Decompression Walk.

Just remember, adrenalin and the brain are not a productive couple, so try to keep excitement on the down-low before any adventures!

Did you know that dogs can smell adrenalin? When we get stressed or anxious, our four-legged-friends can often sense our concerns and feel on-edge themselves. A decompression walk is a good way for you to relax with your dog and explore together. Taking an extra second to plan a peaceful and low fuss walk like this is the best way to take a deep breath and experience new things together. Whether they are nose down in a bush or rolling around in the muddiest puddle they can find, having a self-rewarding time together can put you both at ease and make your relationship stronger.

What works best for your dogs is entirely up to you and them – but if you’re not sure where to begin, take a look at the following steps and adapt them to suit the both of you!

Think about what they like most. Is it fishing around in streams or lakes? Sniffing in long grass? Inspecting the local bugs? It may even be digging down to some exciting underground smells!

This is the best time to plan where your next walk will be. We recommend looking for somewhere that is as natural as possible, it could be your nearest forest, beach or even your local playing fields. Just somewhere that feels free and relaxed.

Try to get here when it is as quiet as possible. Finding an undisturbed place and time can be difficult, but early and late hours, or remote locations are best to keep your dog’s nose undistracted and working.

Keep it fresh! Lots of dogs are not a fan of the rain, but once the skies have cleared, there are lots of new smells around (and less people) so this is a great chance to get out and give it a go.

If you’re feeling really brave, letting your dog roll in all sorts of muck is a completely normal behaviour. Ready the towel and be prepared to battle through a bath when you’re home.

A dog’s natural pace is much faster than our own. Giving them the space to feel free is the best first step to a successful Decompression Walk. We know that sometimes being off the lead can be a little daunting for you both, so using a ‘Long-Line’ can be a great way to give your dog more freedom to explore – even if they struggle with recall!

If you do use a longer leash, make sure to clip it to the back loop of a harness. This will prevent any sore spots if they reach the end of the leash at speed. Alternatively, if you want to use this as an opportunity to work on recall, you can find our top tips here.

Whilst behaviours can range dog-to-dog, spotting a good Decompression Walk is hugely rewarding. The first thing to note is that a high-energy dog will likely be constantly changing what they’re doing. They may be turning in new directions every few seconds, zig zagging and switching up their speed often. If you think back to a time where you have visited a friend’s house or garden with your dog, think about their behaviour here. It most likely has been a quick trot of exploration, with them seeming to be on several trails at once. This is exactly what we want! If your dog is a little lower on their energy scale, a relaxing stroll is just as good. They may stop more to investigate things, roll around an ordinary patch of grass, or snorkel in the nearest puddle.

Check their body language. A soft face and pant, relaxed body and loose tail are all good signs that your dog is happy exploring. One of the golden rules of a Decompression Walk is that we want no limitations for your dog (within safe parameters). Keep a long and loose lead and follow them wherever they choose to go. All dogs explore the world with their nose, so, no matter their energy levels, make sure you stop with them whilst they’re sniffing.

It’s completely normal for our dogs to investigate bugs and flies, it is also somewhat common to hear of dogs attempting to snack on bees, keep an eye on your dog near especially bright flowers.

If you’re planning to hunt through some long grass, make sure that you check yourself and your dog over afterwards for ticks. They can be quickly removed by your vet, though most will be able to do so at home.

Just like us when we have a long day in the office A shorter walk, whilst using their brain, can be just as tiring as a long run for your dog. Keep an eye on when they start to slow down and end it on a positive note with a big comfy bed in sight.

Fearfulness can be reduced or eliminated using a method called desensitisation and counter conditioning. During which the dog gradually gets used to whatever is worrying them, then starts to associate it with something nice, such as food or play. However, for this to work you need to avoid the trigger entirely whilst training is underway, or the fear it causes will undo all your hard work. This can be tricky for day-to-day causes, such as doorbells going, or vacuuming up the never-ending supply of dog hair on our floors, though taking a break from online shopping, asking friends to call when they have arrived and breaking out the trusty old broom are all easy ways around this.   

In the case of event-driven fear, such as fireworks, festive parties and birthday balloons, we highly recommend starting training when the event is not likely to happen for a while. This is to set your dog up for maximum success, and by that, we mean several months to even a year before they are expected! The longer you practice for, and more consistent you can be, and the stronger their comfort levels will become. Please do remember that even if your dog has built a new routine and is coping with their fears, avoiding unnecessary situations is the key to building a trusting and positive future together. Their emotions are valid, as much as yours or mine, so maybe give the Christmas crackers a miss this year!  

One of the most common faux pas we see when desensitising our dogs is, sorry to break it to you, owner outlook. It may sound harsh, but we always want to be honest with ourselves and our community. Often is the case that we struggle to differentiate between ‘putting up with’ and actually ‘healing’ a behaviour. Though the desensitisation and counter conditioning process does take a long time, when compared with a behaviour escalating over 15+ years, it seems like a no brainer – so time to break the high value treats out and begin as soon as possible. 

Though we are honest that desensitisation and counter conditioning is no quick fix, it does have reliable and lasting results. Also, whist the time length can be daunting overall, it can work wonders when just a couple of 15-minute periods a day are set aside for our beloved fluffy friends.

The right place to start really depends on what is affecting your dog. So, to break it down, we are going to provide two examples. Firstly, fireworks, a high stress, unavoidable and event driven fear, and secondly, fearing other dogs, an everyday, consistent, routine reaction.   

Fireworks are notorious instigators of panic and intolerable fear in dogs. Every year, it is debated whether they should be restricted or even banned, so much so that some areas in Europe have started noiseless firework displays to promote animal welfare. However, currently there is nothing we can do to prevent the month-long explosions, aside from help our dogs with their fears at home.    

 Like we mentioned above, starting now when there are unlikely to be any fireworks for a while, gives your dog the opportunity to really benefit from the work you will put in, so you can take it slow and steady ahead of the autumn season.   

 Step 1: Begin by playing audio clips of fireworks at the lowest volume possible. We all know that dog’s noses are much more sensitive than ours, but did you know that their ears are too? So, start by playing this for about 5 seconds, all the while watching your dog carefully for any sign of fear. If they seem at all worried stop the recording straight away and try again later at a lower volume. 

 NOTE: If your dog is fearful at even the lowest possible volume you may need help from a Clinical Animal Behaviourist 

 If your dog is relaxed then continue to play the sound whilst you give them something nice to chew on, or a stuffed Kong. Just carry on like nothing unusual is happening and stop the recording when your dog has finished their yummy treat. 

The goal here is to repeat this routine at least once a day for a few days so your dog starts to subconsciously associate the sounds of the recording with the pleasure he gets from eating. Once you are sure your dog is completely happy with this, you can move on to the next stage.  

Step 2: Increase the volume of the clip you are playing ever so slightly and repeat step one. Again repeat at least once and day and monitor for any sign your dog is worried. If they are, stop and go back to a lower volume. If they are responding well, very gradually increase the volume each day until it reaches a normal everyday level (no louder).   

 Step 3: Once your dog has learnt the basics and can tolerate the sounds of your computer playing fireworks clips, try repeating the sound through other devices, such as a low volume speaker, or the TV. It’s best to start from step 1 when you do this, as dogs will not always translate their learnings across different sound systems.   

Step 4: Repeat, repeat, repeat! If you’re at step 4, you have made fabulous progress with your dog, but make sure it doesn’t go to waste! Pop your favourite firework soundtracks on as you get through your emails, prep your lunch or even in the background as you watch a film, and give your dog their kong or alternative food enrichment. The key here is to normalise the sound as much as possible and condition your dog to think that these bangs, whilst annoying, have no bad repercussions. Try to do this at least every couple of days until your pup is dreaming peacefully throughout.   

If at any point throughout this process, your dog does look worried, or presents signs of concern such as lip-licking or whining, take it back to the last stage they were comfortable with and stay there for a while longer.   

 Your dog becoming comfortable with the idea of fireworks will certainly make them more likely to manage their reactions during fireworks night, however it will most likely not eliminate their fear entirely. Check out our tips on Handling Fireworks Night With Your Dog, to learn more about getting them through the night itself. 

Routine reactions are situations that initiate a common response each and every time they occur. Whilst these can be harder to avoid throughout the year, and setbacks will likely happen more often, the great news is that they often have less of an ‘it’s the end of the world’ feeling, and we can mostly choose how often we want to expose our dogs to them. In this case, we are usually working with a repeat instigator, that triggers a repeat emotion and therefore a repeat reaction.   

So, to combat this, we are going to take our process from above, and add in a couple more steps.   

Step 1: Take a break. It’s important to keep our dog’s minds and bodies fit, but make sure to take a break every time your dog shows fear as a result of seeing another pup. We need to avoid our frightened dogs seeing other dogs in the early stages, except during training sessions when you are sure not approached by them.

Step 2: Find a way to introduce the trigger in a controlled and non-threatening way. In this case, if your pup struggles to keep their cool when seeing other dogs, find a secure spot where you can keep a comfortable distance from them and visit for short regular training sessions. Try to consider areas near you that dogs are often on the lead. 

Step 3: Stay in control. We cannot stress the importance of this enough. If your unleashed dog approaches a leashed dog and there is an altercation that leads to someone feeling scared of or being injured by your dog, in the eyes of the law, your dog is the one out of control. Even if leashed dog initiates a confrontation, you are responsible. Only let your dog off the leash if you have full recall control and avoid letting them greet leashed dogs. If you need some tips on improving recall, check out our blog here.   

Step 4: Watch your dog’s body language to ensure they are far away enough from the other dog not to be worried by them. If they show any signs of being worried move further away. It can also help to have taught a cue such as ‘watch’ or ‘this way’ so you can guide your dog’s behaviour when they see a dog they are uncomfortable with. Bring along a selection of high value treats and give your dog the cue and then a treat each time they notice another dog.

Step 5: Keep at it! It may not seem like very much is happening but we are slowly changing our dog’s emotional responses. By giving them something wonderful each time they see a dog, they will start to build up the association of dogs = good things. It really does take a while, so don’t be discouraged if you don’t see immediate results. 

Step 6: Look for the change. If you repeat step 5 over and over, there will come a time when your dog sees another dog, and for a brief second, they look to you for the treat. This is a great moment and the start of some real improvement. When this happens, reward your dog with several treats, one by one in rapid succession. We want them to be really motivated to do it again!

Step 7: You guessed it, repeat! By rehearsing these steps over and over, very gradually, and closer to the other dogs, your dog will start to learn to be less worried by them. However, don’t rush things and make sure to only decrease the distance and increase duration once your dog is completely relaxed.  

If you are struggling or would like some practical help then get in touch with your vet or find an accredited behaviourist. 

If at any point throughout this process, your dog does react, or presents signs of concern such as lip-licking or whining, take it back to the last stage they were comfortable with and stay there for a while longer.  

Manage your expectations. Ask yourself what the end goal is and see if it is realistic. A dog who is extremely fearful of other pups will most likely never be the sociable life and soul of the local dog group, though knowing they will be less fearful and that you can enjoy your adventures together will be a significant improvement.

We know you have heard it before and we will keep shouting it from the rooftops until we are hoarse! Setting your dog up for success is the no.1 key piece of advice we can give you. Instead of whacking the TV at full volume and hoping that Fido doesn’t hear a peep, trying to teach your dogs that the muffled pops and bangs are nothing to fear will give you a much greater chance at predicting their behaviour.

Our first piece of advice is therefore, to START NOW! Think of it a little bit like the dog version of Systematic Desensitisation. If you, as a human, had an intense fear of spiders, popping a huge tarantula on your hand and asking you to be relaxed would be a bit of a nightmare all around. You would (understandably) panic, the spider would freak out and be more likely to run, and you certainly wouldn’t be inviting us round for a cup of tea any time soon! Instead, if we gave you a month to slowly desensitise yourself to the idea of a spider, the feel of it in your hand and even how it looks, you would be more likely to understand that it’s not as much of a threat as you originally thought, and, though you still really don’t like it, we have removed much of the risk of panic!

It works in a similar way with dogs. If you gently (and we mean gently) expose your dogs to the necessary processes below that you will take during fireworks night, you have a greater chance of them understanding what is going on and that it’s not all new, scary and confusing. Even the cleverest of dogs get their tails in a knot with sudden changes in their routine, so try to introduce these slowly and positively with lots of nice and calm ‘good dog’s’ and food enrichment!

Our second top tip is the Adaptil plug in. This nifty piece of kit mimics the pleasing hormones that our dogs thrive off, and it’s a great way to encourage a calm and positive atmosphere in the home. This way, you can begin to interrupt the anxious pacing and cortisol production happening behind your dog’s eyes and give them more of a chance to make rational decisions.

We do all love a chance to get together and celebrate. However, having a dog is a huge responsibility, and when you take on the cute button noses, the cuddles, companionship, laughs and adventure, you must also take on the duty of care when it comes to fears, training and lifestyle – at some points, this does mean sacrificing the odd event. Fireworks can be terrifying to your dog, so we strongly advise that you rain-check any plans to attend displays, parties or bonfires, and stay home to help your pups cope this year. Even dogs who seem confident and chilled out can get frightened of loud noises when left alone.

Crate training your dog is a common controversial topic in the animal industry. We can be clear here, that whether you decide to crate train or not is entirely up to you, though positively introducing a den-like area can be made much easier if your dog already loves his crate. If you are averse to using an enclosed crate, having one with the door removed can offer that safe space within your boundaries.

Whether you have a crate or not, filling this area with familiar cushions, blankets, bedding, toys and treats is the next step for teaching your dog that this is a safe and happy place. It is important to leave your dog to settle in here alone, especially if you have young children or a busy household. This is now your dog’s safe space, where no one, or thing can get to them.

Most of us can resign ourselves to one or two difficult firework evenings here and there, but managing a fearful or anxious dog can become a much bigger task when the festivities begin to seep into new weeks. At this point, it is best to throw in the towel and manage your routine as best you can. Keeping your dog away from night time walks will prevent the risk of a firework causing them to bolt. If you find yourself with no option than to travel with them at night (on your way back from a dog-friendly office perhaps?) then keep them on a lead just to be sure!

When you gotta go, you gotta go, right? One of the most challenging parts of this season is trying to find a break to take your dog out for a loo break in between explosions! It’s a challenge we have all faced and not one to be taken lightly. There is one sure fire way to beat the guess work here… puppy pads!

It might not be to everyone’s taste, but forcing your dog into the garden, only for them to be confronted with their biggest fear, can lead to adverse associations with said garden in future.

Find out what works best for your dog’s brain, be it Kongs, Licki Mats, scatter feeding or hiding treats, engaging and distracting your dog’s brain works wonders at getting them off the panic wagon. Food enrichment is also a great way to plan. Introducing your dog to a high value food toy only when it is filled with the good stuff can help keep them focused for hours when needed!

We would love to say that we live in a world of upstanding members of society who clean up after themselves, though we all know that this is often not the case. Be aware of broken, used or discarded fireworks or lighters on your walks out, and be sure to have full control of both the ‘come’ and ‘leave it’ commands before letting your dog explore!

Building a trustworthy support process ahead of fireworks is the best way to keep your dog cool as a cucumber, whilst also keeping your blood pressure down. Remember to hold your nerve when you hear a firework, and don’t draw any attention to it – even if your dog still shows signs of expected anxiety or fear, they will thank you for doing your best to help them cope.