Helping With Fears – Desensitisation and Counter Conditioning

Fearfulness can be reduced or eliminated using a method called desensitisation and counter conditioning. During which the dog gradually gets used to whatever is worrying them, then starts to associate it with something nice, such as food or play. However, for this to work you need to avoid the trigger entirely whilst training is underway, or the fear it causes will undo all your hard work. This can be tricky for day-to-day causes, such as doorbells going, or vacuuming up the never-ending supply of dog hair on our floors, though taking a break from online shopping, asking friends to call when they have arrived and breaking out the trusty old broom are all easy ways around this.   

In the case of event-driven fear, such as fireworks, festive parties and birthday balloons, we highly recommend starting training when the event is not likely to happen for a while. This is to set your dog up for maximum success, and by that, we mean several months to even a year before they are expected! The longer you practice for, and more consistent you can be, and the stronger their comfort levels will become. Please do remember that even if your dog has built a new routine and is coping with their fears, avoiding unnecessary situations is the key to building a trusting and positive future together. Their emotions are valid, as much as yours or mine, so maybe give the Christmas crackers a miss this year!  

One of the most common faux pas we see when desensitising our dogs is, sorry to break it to you, owner outlook. It may sound harsh, but we always want to be honest with ourselves and our community. Often is the case that we struggle to differentiate between ‘putting up with’ and actually ‘healing’ a behaviour. Though the desensitisation and counter conditioning process does take a long time, when compared with a behaviour escalating over 15+ years, it seems like a no brainer – so time to break the high value treats out and begin as soon as possible. 

Though we are honest that desensitisation and counter conditioning is no quick fix, it does have reliable and lasting results. Also, whist the time length can be daunting overall, it can work wonders when just a couple of 15-minute periods a day are set aside for our beloved fluffy friends.

The right place to start really depends on what is affecting your dog. So, to break it down, we are going to provide two examples. Firstly, fireworks, a high stress, unavoidable and event driven fear, and secondly, fearing other dogs, an everyday, consistent, routine reaction.   

Fireworks are notorious instigators of panic and intolerable fear in dogs. Every year, it is debated whether they should be restricted or even banned, so much so that some areas in Europe have started noiseless firework displays to promote animal welfare. However, currently there is nothing we can do to prevent the month-long explosions, aside from help our dogs with their fears at home.    

 Like we mentioned above, starting now when there are unlikely to be any fireworks for a while, gives your dog the opportunity to really benefit from the work you will put in, so you can take it slow and steady ahead of the autumn season.   

 Step 1: Begin by playing audio clips of fireworks at the lowest volume possible. We all know that dog’s noses are much more sensitive than ours, but did you know that their ears are too? So, start by playing this for about 5 seconds, all the while watching your dog carefully for any sign of fear. If they seem at all worried stop the recording straight away and try again later at a lower volume. 

 NOTE: If your dog is fearful at even the lowest possible volume you may need help from a Clinical Animal Behaviourist 

 If your dog is relaxed then continue to play the sound whilst you give them something nice to chew on, or a stuffed Kong. Just carry on like nothing unusual is happening and stop the recording when your dog has finished their yummy treat. 

The goal here is to repeat this routine at least once a day for a few days so your dog starts to subconsciously associate the sounds of the recording with the pleasure he gets from eating. Once you are sure your dog is completely happy with this, you can move on to the next stage.  

Step 2: Increase the volume of the clip you are playing ever so slightly and repeat step one. Again repeat at least once and day and monitor for any sign your dog is worried. If they are, stop and go back to a lower volume. If they are responding well, very gradually increase the volume each day until it reaches a normal everyday level (no louder).   

 Step 3: Once your dog has learnt the basics and can tolerate the sounds of your computer playing fireworks clips, try repeating the sound through other devices, such as a low volume speaker, or the TV. It’s best to start from step 1 when you do this, as dogs will not always translate their learnings across different sound systems.   

Step 4: Repeat, repeat, repeat! If you’re at step 4, you have made fabulous progress with your dog, but make sure it doesn’t go to waste! Pop your favourite firework soundtracks on as you get through your emails, prep your lunch or even in the background as you watch a film, and give your dog their kong or alternative food enrichment. The key here is to normalise the sound as much as possible and condition your dog to think that these bangs, whilst annoying, have no bad repercussions. Try to do this at least every couple of days until your pup is dreaming peacefully throughout.   

If at any point throughout this process, your dog does look worried, or presents signs of concern such as lip-licking or whining, take it back to the last stage they were comfortable with and stay there for a while longer.   

 Your dog becoming comfortable with the idea of fireworks will certainly make them more likely to manage their reactions during fireworks night, however it will most likely not eliminate their fear entirely. Check out our tips on Handling Fireworks Night With Your Dog, to learn more about getting them through the night itself. 

Routine reactions are situations that initiate a common response each and every time they occur. Whilst these can be harder to avoid throughout the year, and setbacks will likely happen more often, the great news is that they often have less of an ‘it’s the end of the world’ feeling, and we can mostly choose how often we want to expose our dogs to them. In this case, we are usually working with a repeat instigator, that triggers a repeat emotion and therefore a repeat reaction.   

So, to combat this, we are going to take our process from above, and add in a couple more steps.   

Step 1: Take a break. It’s important to keep our dog’s minds and bodies fit, but make sure to take a break every time your dog shows fear as a result of seeing another pup. We need to avoid our frightened dogs seeing other dogs in the early stages, except during training sessions when you are sure not approached by them.

Step 2: Find a way to introduce the trigger in a controlled and non-threatening way. In this case, if your pup struggles to keep their cool when seeing other dogs, find a secure spot where you can keep a comfortable distance from them and visit for short regular training sessions. Try to consider areas near you that dogs are often on the lead. 

Step 3: Stay in control. We cannot stress the importance of this enough. If your unleashed dog approaches a leashed dog and there is an altercation that leads to someone feeling scared of or being injured by your dog, in the eyes of the law, your dog is the one out of control. Even if leashed dog initiates a confrontation, you are responsible. Only let your dog off the leash if you have full recall control and avoid letting them greet leashed dogs. If you need some tips on improving recall, check out our blog here.   

Step 4: Watch your dog’s body language to ensure they are far away enough from the other dog not to be worried by them. If they show any signs of being worried move further away. It can also help to have taught a cue such as ‘watch’ or ‘this way’ so you can guide your dog’s behaviour when they see a dog they are uncomfortable with. Bring along a selection of high value treats and give your dog the cue and then a treat each time they notice another dog.

Step 5: Keep at it! It may not seem like very much is happening but we are slowly changing our dog’s emotional responses. By giving them something wonderful each time they see a dog, they will start to build up the association of dogs = good things. It really does take a while, so don’t be discouraged if you don’t see immediate results. 

Step 6: Look for the change. If you repeat step 5 over and over, there will come a time when your dog sees another dog, and for a brief second, they look to you for the treat. This is a great moment and the start of some real improvement. When this happens, reward your dog with several treats, one by one in rapid succession. We want them to be really motivated to do it again!

Step 7: You guessed it, repeat! By rehearsing these steps over and over, very gradually, and closer to the other dogs, your dog will start to learn to be less worried by them. However, don’t rush things and make sure to only decrease the distance and increase duration once your dog is completely relaxed.  

If you are struggling or would like some practical help then get in touch with your vet or find an accredited behaviourist. 

If at any point throughout this process, your dog does react, or presents signs of concern such as lip-licking or whining, take it back to the last stage they were comfortable with and stay there for a while longer.  

Manage your expectations. Ask yourself what the end goal is and see if it is realistic. A dog who is extremely fearful of other pups will most likely never be the sociable life and soul of the local dog group, though knowing they will be less fearful and that you can enjoy your adventures together will be a significant improvement.