Fearfulness can be reduced or eliminated using a method called desensitisation and counter conditioning. During which the dog gradually gets used to whatever is worrying them, then starts to associate it with something nice, such as food or play. However, for this to work you need to avoid the trigger entirely whilst training is underway, or the fear it causes will undo all your hard work. This can be tricky for day-to-day causes, such as doorbells going, or vacuuming up the never-ending supply of dog hair on our floors, though taking a break from online shopping, asking friends to call when they have arrived and breaking out the trusty old broom are all easy ways around this.   

In the case of event-driven fear, such as fireworks, festive parties and birthday balloons, we highly recommend starting training when the event is not likely to happen for a while. This is to set your dog up for maximum success, and by that, we mean several months to even a year before they are expected! The longer you practice for, and more consistent you can be, and the stronger their comfort levels will become. Please do remember that even if your dog has built a new routine and is coping with their fears, avoiding unnecessary situations is the key to building a trusting and positive future together. Their emotions are valid, as much as yours or mine, so maybe give the Christmas crackers a miss this year!  

One of the most common faux pas we see when desensitising our dogs is, sorry to break it to you, owner outlook. It may sound harsh, but we always want to be honest with ourselves and our community. Often is the case that we struggle to differentiate between ‘putting up with’ and actually ‘healing’ a behaviour. Though the desensitisation and counter conditioning process does take a long time, when compared with a behaviour escalating over 15+ years, it seems like a no brainer – so time to break the high value treats out and begin as soon as possible. 

Though we are honest that desensitisation and counter conditioning is no quick fix, it does have reliable and lasting results. Also, whist the time length can be daunting overall, it can work wonders when just a couple of 15-minute periods a day are set aside for our beloved fluffy friends.

The right place to start really depends on what is affecting your dog. So, to break it down, we are going to provide two examples. Firstly, fireworks, a high stress, unavoidable and event driven fear, and secondly, fearing other dogs, an everyday, consistent, routine reaction.   

Fireworks are notorious instigators of panic and intolerable fear in dogs. Every year, it is debated whether they should be restricted or even banned, so much so that some areas in Europe have started noiseless firework displays to promote animal welfare. However, currently there is nothing we can do to prevent the month-long explosions, aside from help our dogs with their fears at home.    

 Like we mentioned above, starting now when there are unlikely to be any fireworks for a while, gives your dog the opportunity to really benefit from the work you will put in, so you can take it slow and steady ahead of the autumn season.   

 Step 1: Begin by playing audio clips of fireworks at the lowest volume possible. We all know that dog’s noses are much more sensitive than ours, but did you know that their ears are too? So, start by playing this for about 5 seconds, all the while watching your dog carefully for any sign of fear. If they seem at all worried stop the recording straight away and try again later at a lower volume. 

 NOTE: If your dog is fearful at even the lowest possible volume you may need help from a Clinical Animal Behaviourist 

 If your dog is relaxed then continue to play the sound whilst you give them something nice to chew on, or a stuffed Kong. Just carry on like nothing unusual is happening and stop the recording when your dog has finished their yummy treat. 

The goal here is to repeat this routine at least once a day for a few days so your dog starts to subconsciously associate the sounds of the recording with the pleasure he gets from eating. Once you are sure your dog is completely happy with this, you can move on to the next stage.  

Step 2: Increase the volume of the clip you are playing ever so slightly and repeat step one. Again repeat at least once and day and monitor for any sign your dog is worried. If they are, stop and go back to a lower volume. If they are responding well, very gradually increase the volume each day until it reaches a normal everyday level (no louder).   

 Step 3: Once your dog has learnt the basics and can tolerate the sounds of your computer playing fireworks clips, try repeating the sound through other devices, such as a low volume speaker, or the TV. It’s best to start from step 1 when you do this, as dogs will not always translate their learnings across different sound systems.   

Step 4: Repeat, repeat, repeat! If you’re at step 4, you have made fabulous progress with your dog, but make sure it doesn’t go to waste! Pop your favourite firework soundtracks on as you get through your emails, prep your lunch or even in the background as you watch a film, and give your dog their kong or alternative food enrichment. The key here is to normalise the sound as much as possible and condition your dog to think that these bangs, whilst annoying, have no bad repercussions. Try to do this at least every couple of days until your pup is dreaming peacefully throughout.   

If at any point throughout this process, your dog does look worried, or presents signs of concern such as lip-licking or whining, take it back to the last stage they were comfortable with and stay there for a while longer.   

 Your dog becoming comfortable with the idea of fireworks will certainly make them more likely to manage their reactions during fireworks night, however it will most likely not eliminate their fear entirely. Check out our tips on Handling Fireworks Night With Your Dog, to learn more about getting them through the night itself. 

Routine reactions are situations that initiate a common response each and every time they occur. Whilst these can be harder to avoid throughout the year, and setbacks will likely happen more often, the great news is that they often have less of an ‘it’s the end of the world’ feeling, and we can mostly choose how often we want to expose our dogs to them. In this case, we are usually working with a repeat instigator, that triggers a repeat emotion and therefore a repeat reaction.   

So, to combat this, we are going to take our process from above, and add in a couple more steps.   

Step 1: Take a break. It’s important to keep our dog’s minds and bodies fit, but make sure to take a break every time your dog shows fear as a result of seeing another pup. We need to avoid our frightened dogs seeing other dogs in the early stages, except during training sessions when you are sure not approached by them.

Step 2: Find a way to introduce the trigger in a controlled and non-threatening way. In this case, if your pup struggles to keep their cool when seeing other dogs, find a secure spot where you can keep a comfortable distance from them and visit for short regular training sessions. Try to consider areas near you that dogs are often on the lead. 

Step 3: Stay in control. We cannot stress the importance of this enough. If your unleashed dog approaches a leashed dog and there is an altercation that leads to someone feeling scared of or being injured by your dog, in the eyes of the law, your dog is the one out of control. Even if leashed dog initiates a confrontation, you are responsible. Only let your dog off the leash if you have full recall control and avoid letting them greet leashed dogs. If you need some tips on improving recall, check out our blog here.   

Step 4: Watch your dog’s body language to ensure they are far away enough from the other dog not to be worried by them. If they show any signs of being worried move further away. It can also help to have taught a cue such as ‘watch’ or ‘this way’ so you can guide your dog’s behaviour when they see a dog they are uncomfortable with. Bring along a selection of high value treats and give your dog the cue and then a treat each time they notice another dog.

Step 5: Keep at it! It may not seem like very much is happening but we are slowly changing our dog’s emotional responses. By giving them something wonderful each time they see a dog, they will start to build up the association of dogs = good things. It really does take a while, so don’t be discouraged if you don’t see immediate results. 

Step 6: Look for the change. If you repeat step 5 over and over, there will come a time when your dog sees another dog, and for a brief second, they look to you for the treat. This is a great moment and the start of some real improvement. When this happens, reward your dog with several treats, one by one in rapid succession. We want them to be really motivated to do it again!

Step 7: You guessed it, repeat! By rehearsing these steps over and over, very gradually, and closer to the other dogs, your dog will start to learn to be less worried by them. However, don’t rush things and make sure to only decrease the distance and increase duration once your dog is completely relaxed.  

If you are struggling or would like some practical help then get in touch with your vet or find an accredited behaviourist. 

If at any point throughout this process, your dog does react, or presents signs of concern such as lip-licking or whining, take it back to the last stage they were comfortable with and stay there for a while longer.  

Manage your expectations. Ask yourself what the end goal is and see if it is realistic. A dog who is extremely fearful of other pups will most likely never be the sociable life and soul of the local dog group, though knowing they will be less fearful and that you can enjoy your adventures together will be a significant improvement.

The ‘adopt, don’t shop’ phrase has taken off as a key tag line you will hear in most rescue charities, and whilst it certainly is catchy and memorable, does it really explain the importance of rescue and why it is so imperative to support dogs in shelter? We have to say, much like our naughty pups at home, the second you hear “don’t”, boy, does it make you want to do whatever they are advising against. So, before we get on to the specifics of rescuing a street dog, we’d like to take the opportunity to discuss why you should consider adopting, over shopping.

Unfortunately, since the high demand of puppies during Covid19, there has been a staggering boom in the level of puppy mills and backyard breeders, both of which have devised incredibly clever ways of hiding their true origins and appearing as above-the-board, responsible breeders. Whilst getting a puppy out of this situation is certainly a tick in our box, unfortunately, buying into these processes only serves to fuel their fire and continue to over-breed, mistreat and even in plenty of cases, cause fatalities. This is especially important to consider when we add in the effects of maternal stress from mother dogs in these environments. We will go on to explain how this affects puppies of all backgrounds below.

There are predicted to be 300 million stray dogs living around the world, and this does not include dogs currently living in shelters! These animals’ experiences fear, mistreatment, abuse and malnutrition, sometimes on a daily basis, and shockingly, so many of them are still puppies themselves.

An issue that we rarely hear of is the appalling number of dogs around the world who are euthanised on a daily basis. Whilst this can be argued to be due to medical concerns, breed bias, or behavioural challenges, we can not ignore the fact that it is also due to the much lower demand of rescues in comparison to puppies. The number of dogs being euthanised globally every single day could be drastically reduced if the demand for them showed a significant increase.

There are so many more reasons for adopting over buying, and countless wonderful charities working towards the same goal for the helpless dogs already living in our world. We will never stop the puppy trade, but all we can ask is, if you do shop, please consider rescuing first, and if your mind is set, please do so responsibly.

‘Stray dogs’ is a very broad term for a lot of unique individuals with complex backgrounds. Whilst we use the words ‘stray’, ‘street’, or ‘vulnerable’ to talk about the dogs we rescue on a wider note, they could have come from any number of situations to end up in their position. Some have been abandoned or born on the streets, some kept in horrific conditions for slaughter, some relinquished due to an inability to care for them in a country with no alternatives. Whatever the reason, they all deserve the exact same level of compassion, understanding and commitment to a brighter future.

These incredible dogs are not your usual rescues. As most UK rescue shelters will host dogs that have been given up by previous owners, it is rare that they would have experienced homelessness to such a great extent. In the UK, we see a stray dog and we immediately take action to ensure it is in safe hands – our four-legged-friends around the world are just not that fortunate. Living on the streets or in a neglectful environment for a critical period of time encourages a dog to become hardwired for survival. This can become very stressful for them when they are required to adapt in a contrasting environment. When all we want to do is cuddle, stroke, scratch and feed our new fur-babies, this could be a big request for a dog that has not experienced any affection. Whilst it is unique in each case, dog to dog, they may present signs of resource guarding, stranger danger, a fear of loud and sudden noises or similar uncertainties. These fears can present in any number of different reactions, but adopted dogs do always come with character profiles, and as much as we know about their background, so that you can prepare for these challenges with the help of our team!

When rescuing a dog, especially from abroad, we cannot ask, or expect them to adapt in a limited time period. Building their trust and essentially rewiring their brains and instincts takes time, and a very patient person, but when you do see that change, nothing beats it!

“Riley was initially very scared of other dogs. He would cower or try and run away from them when he saw them. Introducing him to family dogs was really helpful, he really quickly took comfort from them and watching him relax and play for the first time was very heart-warming – it was amazing to see him come into his own and be the social dog he is deep down!” Maddy and Riley

One key thing to consider that we touched upon above, and certainly something to bear in mind when adopting from overseas, is that puppies may not have the fully adaptive nature you can expect from most UK based litters. If the dog you are considering to rescue was born on the streets, it is key to note that maternal stress on the mother can have a big impact on how a puppy reacts to changes or stresses in their environment.

It is obvious once you think about it, but good to remind ourselves that puppies brains have already started developing before birth. Though they do come out all wobbly and don’t know their tail from their nose, hormonal tuning is an evolutionary survival tactic in all mammals. For puppies that had the potential to be born into stressful and hazardous environments, a developed stress response could be the difference between life and death for them.

This certainly does not mean that all puppies will always be reactive to all stresses in their lives. It may present itself as more submissive traits, a strong flight response, or just a ‘find a safe place with my family’ attitude, and it is most definitely something that can improve greatly with positive training and a stable environment (there’s that patience and compassion we bring up so often!)

The final, and one of the most crucial, aspect we want to discuss is what we call a ‘critical period’, often tied closely with another self-explanatory title, ‘single event learning’. These two concepts are something that pretty much all dogs experience, rescue or not, and most commonly at a younger age. A critical period is a time when a dog is most responsive to stressors in the wider environment, and single event learning occurs during this time.

If, for example, your dog is in a critical period, and they experience a loud alarm such as a fire alarm or burglar alarm, and especially If it is paired with frantic, stressful, or highly emotional responses from those around them, their reaction becomes learnt from this single event – make sense? This means that whenever they hear an alarm in future, they are flooded by these emotions and cause them to react in an emotional way. As mentioned above, pretty much all dogs experience these times, no matter where they are from, though when paired with a young pup that has had a troubling start in life and potentially several bad experiences, it can take a bit more work to help them overcome their fears.

Responsible pet ownership starts with understanding our dog’s emotions, and their causes. So, whilst we will always encourage adopting over buying, we know that the true value for every dog is in their owner’s kindness and empathy.

Rescuing a dog does require devotion and persistence, but for a street puppy that had no chance at a future, to a life with a family who becomes their whole world, there really is nothing that compares. Successful adoption comes with education, and we highly encourage every single dog owner (rescue or otherwise) to keep learning about their dogs. Without rescue, each one of the 2,000+ dogs we have successfully rehomed since our start would still be living on the streets, in fear and pain. It is an incredible experience, and with the right patience and compassion, it’s definitely an experience like no other.

We know you have heard it before and we will keep shouting it from the rooftops until we are hoarse! Setting your dog up for success is the no.1 key piece of advice we can give you. Instead of whacking the TV at full volume and hoping that Fido doesn’t hear a peep, trying to teach your dogs that the muffled pops and bangs are nothing to fear will give you a much greater chance at predicting their behaviour.

Our first piece of advice is therefore, to START NOW! Think of it a little bit like the dog version of Systematic Desensitisation. If you, as a human, had an intense fear of spiders, popping a huge tarantula on your hand and asking you to be relaxed would be a bit of a nightmare all around. You would (understandably) panic, the spider would freak out and be more likely to run, and you certainly wouldn’t be inviting us round for a cup of tea any time soon! Instead, if we gave you a month to slowly desensitise yourself to the idea of a spider, the feel of it in your hand and even how it looks, you would be more likely to understand that it’s not as much of a threat as you originally thought, and, though you still really don’t like it, we have removed much of the risk of panic!

It works in a similar way with dogs. If you gently (and we mean gently) expose your dogs to the necessary processes below that you will take during fireworks night, you have a greater chance of them understanding what is going on and that it’s not all new, scary and confusing. Even the cleverest of dogs get their tails in a knot with sudden changes in their routine, so try to introduce these slowly and positively with lots of nice and calm ‘good dog’s’ and food enrichment!

Our second top tip is the Adaptil plug in. This nifty piece of kit mimics the pleasing hormones that our dogs thrive off, and it’s a great way to encourage a calm and positive atmosphere in the home. This way, you can begin to interrupt the anxious pacing and cortisol production happening behind your dog’s eyes and give them more of a chance to make rational decisions.

We do all love a chance to get together and celebrate. However, having a dog is a huge responsibility, and when you take on the cute button noses, the cuddles, companionship, laughs and adventure, you must also take on the duty of care when it comes to fears, training and lifestyle – at some points, this does mean sacrificing the odd event. Fireworks can be terrifying to your dog, so we strongly advise that you rain-check any plans to attend displays, parties or bonfires, and stay home to help your pups cope this year. Even dogs who seem confident and chilled out can get frightened of loud noises when left alone.

Crate training your dog is a common controversial topic in the animal industry. We can be clear here, that whether you decide to crate train or not is entirely up to you, though positively introducing a den-like area can be made much easier if your dog already loves his crate. If you are averse to using an enclosed crate, having one with the door removed can offer that safe space within your boundaries.

Whether you have a crate or not, filling this area with familiar cushions, blankets, bedding, toys and treats is the next step for teaching your dog that this is a safe and happy place. It is important to leave your dog to settle in here alone, especially if you have young children or a busy household. This is now your dog’s safe space, where no one, or thing can get to them.

Most of us can resign ourselves to one or two difficult firework evenings here and there, but managing a fearful or anxious dog can become a much bigger task when the festivities begin to seep into new weeks. At this point, it is best to throw in the towel and manage your routine as best you can. Keeping your dog away from night time walks will prevent the risk of a firework causing them to bolt. If you find yourself with no option than to travel with them at night (on your way back from a dog-friendly office perhaps?) then keep them on a lead just to be sure!

When you gotta go, you gotta go, right? One of the most challenging parts of this season is trying to find a break to take your dog out for a loo break in between explosions! It’s a challenge we have all faced and not one to be taken lightly. There is one sure fire way to beat the guess work here… puppy pads!

It might not be to everyone’s taste, but forcing your dog into the garden, only for them to be confronted with their biggest fear, can lead to adverse associations with said garden in future.

Find out what works best for your dog’s brain, be it Kongs, Licki Mats, scatter feeding or hiding treats, engaging and distracting your dog’s brain works wonders at getting them off the panic wagon. Food enrichment is also a great way to plan. Introducing your dog to a high value food toy only when it is filled with the good stuff can help keep them focused for hours when needed!

We would love to say that we live in a world of upstanding members of society who clean up after themselves, though we all know that this is often not the case. Be aware of broken, used or discarded fireworks or lighters on your walks out, and be sure to have full control of both the ‘come’ and ‘leave it’ commands before letting your dog explore!

Building a trustworthy support process ahead of fireworks is the best way to keep your dog cool as a cucumber, whilst also keeping your blood pressure down. Remember to hold your nerve when you hear a firework, and don’t draw any attention to it – even if your dog still shows signs of expected anxiety or fear, they will thank you for doing your best to help them cope.

Aged 4.5, Adopted 1 year ago by Dawn

What age did you adopt Dawn? 

Dawn came to me last November and is 4 years old, as far as we know, her whole life before rescue in January 2020 was in the dog meat farm.

What was the first few weeks like? 

Her first weeks, months even, she was timid and scared and nervous. I had to make some changes in the house, moving furniture out of the corridor so she was more willing to pass, that sort of thing.

How did you emotionally cope with the difficulties that came with this? 

As someone who has C-PTSD myself I really understood her thought processes which I think really helped. I also have had a number of dogs, nervous and from puppies, and just let them be themselves and come to me in their time.

Emotionally I have just taken great joy in every tiny step, and for me, all that is important is that she is safe and not in a meat farm. I think far too many owners have too high expectations of their dogs, especially rescues that have had traumatic pasts. Just let them be!

What was a key moment when you noticed a change and how did it make you feel?

I’m very soft and cry with joy and my heart bursts when Dawn achieves something big for her, there hasn’t been one key moment, it’s been lots of little ones and we still get them now. Just last night she went through a small gap between the TV unit and my son and we all marvelled at it. In the early days she’d have turned around and left the room if he was standing there.

What is your message to anyone considering adoption? 

The key message that future adopters need to consider is expectations. What they expect from the rescue dog and what the rescue dog can deliver may not match up. Rescuing is more rewarding than anything else, but people need to understand that the dog has a past, and sometimes there will be triggers and things the dog cannot or won’t do. It’s no drama, it’s just an adjustment.

Orion, Age 8, Adopted 2.5 years ago and Bella, Age 6, Adopted 1.5 years ago by Zoe and Euan

When did you adopt Orion and Bella? 

Orion arrived with our family in June 2019 after spending almost 6 years at a shelter in Romania. Bella was at the shelter for 18 months after being removed from her previous home.

What were the first few weeks like? 

When we got Orion, he had never stepped foot in a home before, so the first few weeks with him were all about getting him used to his new environment. At times he would spend hours out in the garden before building up the courage to come inside, he even sat outside in the rain for 2 hours one afternoon which was very difficult to see.

What were the biggest hurdles you faced?

He found it very difficult to walk on hard floors and had never been in a bed before. We needed to adapt as a family to suit his needs. We got rugs for the entire downstairs of the house and changed from a dog bed to a duvet to make him comfortable and over time he got more settled.

After the initial few weeks, did you notice any new behaviours that Bella was displaying that you hadn’t seen yet? 

Bella started growling at “random” people out on walks and we couldn’t work out the connection. This was a confusing and stressful time for us all as we couldn’t pre-empt her reactions. Eventually we realised that she was in fact growling at what the people were holding, walking sticks, crutches, brushes, umbrellas etc. We have spent a great deal of time working with similar objects to build up trust. I wish we had picked up on the reason for her behaviour sooner as it would have made walks much easier.

How did you emotionally cope with the difficulties that came with this? 

It requires dedication and a lot of hard work, not to mention the financial and emotional toll it takes. However, if you are committed to your dog and prepared to work through whatever it throws your way, you will be blessed with a most loving family member you could ever wish for.

Age 11 months, Adopted 5 months ago by Maddie

Is Riley what you expected when you wanted to get a dog (if not, why)?  

I didn’t really have any expectations, as all dogs and rescue dogs are different, I was just expecting it to be a big journey – which it definitely is! There are plenty of hurdles that try as you might, you can’t always prepare for and it was a huge life shift which you just have to adapt to. 

Have you ever considered onward rehoming or regretted your decision even briefly? If so, what made you persevere?   

There have been tough times, but it’s not something I ever thought was an option. Riley made me persevere and the commitment I made to him, he relies on me and we just figure it out together when it gets hard. We are both learning! 

What would you advice to other adopters dealing with behavioural challenges be? 

Reach out for help, to a behaviourist or vet first and foremost. They can offer guidance and support to fill both you and your dog with confidence again. It’s not always easy, you will go back & forwards constantly but time is everything and remember the small wins everyday. 

Aged 4-5, Adopted 2 years ago by Meghan

Is Skyler what you expected when you wanted to get a dog?  

Every dog is an individual and actually my expectations are (now) surpassed! She was the dog I expected because I was told how nervous she was and I expected the hard work I’d have to put in. 

How have you dealt emotionally with the challenges you have faced with a rescue?   

Some days are easier than others and there’s no denying it. Sometimes you compare your dog to other dogs and wish you could, for example, walk through a busier town and sit at a coffee shop with them but for one of my dogs that isn’t possible because she is so nervous. With a rescue, you’ll sadly never know their full history, and you have to remember that and keep your emotions in check for their sake.   

What would your advice to other adopters dealing with behavioural challenges be? 

Never expect too much of them. Go slower than you think you should. Get the help of a clinical behaviourist at the first sign of issues. You owe it to your dog to persevere! 

Litter siblings, Aged 3, Adopted in April 2021 by Zoe and Euan

What was the first few weeks like? 

Kiwi formed a bond with myself incredibly quickly and because of this suffered terrible separation anxiety. We have been building up the time apart slowly and she can now settle for 1.5hrs whilst I’m out but this has taken 4 months to get here.

What were the biggest hurdles you faced? 

Both of the girls are nervous, but Daisy’s nerves are significantly worse. Daisy has spent weeks hiding under our dining table only going outside into the garden first thing in the morning when it is really peaceful. This has taken a great deal of time and patience to help her overcome her fears. She has been home 4 months now and is able to go out in the garden a couple times a day with the encouragement of treats, so we still have a long way to go but she is relaxed in the house and is trusting a little more every day.

How did you emotionally cope with the difficulties that came with this? 

I have cried more over Daisy than I have over anything else in my life. The pain watching her struggle was unbearable at times, but we are making great progress and we will continue to do everything that’s in her best interests. At times I have wondered if I am strong enough to be what she needs me to be, but I am sure of one thing, for me, giving up is not an option.

Age 11 months, Adopted 5 months ago by Grace

How have found rescuing a teenage dog?   

There have been many tears, laughter, and frustration! Talking through any issues I’ve had with friends who have adopted and with trainers/behaviourists have really helped. Reading books and articles online, joining rescue support groups on social media has also been great (but be careful to not compare yourself too much and know each dog is different and your journey is unique).  

Have you ever considered onward rehoming or regretted your decision even briefly? If so, what made you persevere?   

Yes, there have definitely been moments where it’s felt really hard and I wondered if we rushed into the decision (despite talking about it nearly every day for the past 5 years)! Taking a step back and realising we saved a life, and that nothing in life is easy but when you put the work in it is so worth it. Remembering what my dog came from, and just how amazing she is doing despite all that!  

What would your advice to other adopters be? 

Don’t panic, there is always a solution! Yes, it is hard, and it will take time but with patience you will get there! If something has gone wrong, take things right back to basics. Try not to blame yourself and just remind yourself of the good you have done and know things will get better if you put in the time and have patience. 

Age 1.5 years old, Adopted 1 year ago by Rachel 

Is Tilly what you expected when you wanted to get a dog?  

Yes and no – she is funny, clever, sensitive, and so loving, which is exactly the type of dog we wanted to have in our life. She is however very nervous and it takes her a long time to build up trust with people. She doesn’t like people touching her, is incredibly nervous of new experiences and becomes overwhelmed very easily.  

What is a big step that has stuck out for you in this process? 

The first time we saw her wag her tail at my partners dad (a man who wears a hat – two very scary things for Tilly), I was so proud that she could trust someone she had been so afraid of before. I am so happy we persevered as they are now pretty much best friends, with full helicopter tail whenever she sees him!

What would your advice to other adopters dealing with behavioural challenges be?  

Take it slowly – the journey is a long one but it is so worth it. Speak to other people who are in similar situations and seek help from a behaviourist. It may be that there are certain things that will always be a bit of a challenge, but when you see changes and your dog building in confidence, it is the most rewarding feeling in the world. 

Don’t Forget…

It is common misconception that dogs are highly adjustable, always happy, and love attention 24/7. Whilst this may be the case for some dogs, most are actually highly sensitive and over 70% display symptoms of anxiety. You may be the kindest and most gentle family in the world, but remember, it is instinct for most dogs to assume the opposite. Be ready to prove to your dog that they are loved.

Choose your recall word – and stick to it! It may sound strange, but if you’re in a habit of telling your dog ‘no’ by using his name, they may already have a negative, or indifferent association to it. Think about choosing a different word for recall, such as ‘come’ or ‘heel’. What you want to do is associate the word with reward and so they come sprinting to your side at the sound of it.

Practice at home – start with simply using your word and giving your dog a treat every time you say it. Increase the distance, or even just call it out every now and then when your dog is distracted. The second your dog gives you attention, reward them straight away!

Try not to ask your dog for a second action just now. For example, if you call them and ask them to sit on their arrival, they may confuse the commands and you end up just reinforcing the ‘sit’ command. It’s definitely something you can introduce down the line but try and keep it simple to start with.

You might hear these 3 D’s knocking about when researching ways to train your dog. And they are mighty useful when it comes to learning a strong behaviour. Using a longline until you’re confident with their behaviour, start working on the same technique in new ways. This can be with distracting food on the floor, toys being squeaked by a helpful friend, or eventually around other dogs.

Remember that a faultless recall can take a long time, with some mishaps on the way. If your dog doesn’t come back instantly, or even at all, telling them off will just make them not want to come back more. If all else fails and your pup is running into the sunset towards something dangerous, chasing them will only turn into a game.

For us to truly set our dogs up for a long-term success, it is important that we engage their brains and let them learn the joys of outdoors in their way! For plenty of dogs, a good game of fetch is just about the best thing in the world (aside from snacks). Although gentle games of chase are great fun for physically exercising your dog, it doesn’t involve a huge amount of thought.

More common in energetic or the more stubborn breeds (terriers, we’re looking at you), fetch can start to become less of a game of retrieving and more a routine of fixation and high emotion. If this sounds like your dog, we hate to break it to you, but it may be time to put that tennis ball away for a couple of weeks. Don’t worry, we’re not saying that it needs to gather dust in the cupboard for the next few years, but the aim of the game here is to establish a routine of engaging your dog’s brain on a regular basis. A Decompression Walk is all about getting blood flowing to their brain and building up their own ‘I need to figure this out alone’ process.

If your dog thinks tennis balls are far too ‘fetching’, we’d recommend limiting this to a relaxed game in the garden after a Decompression Walk.

Just remember, adrenalin and the brain are not a productive couple, so try to keep excitement on the down-low before any adventures!

Did you know that dogs can smell adrenalin? When we get stressed or anxious, our four-legged-friends can often sense our concerns and feel on-edge themselves. A decompression walk is a good way for you to relax with your dog and explore together. Taking an extra second to plan a peaceful and low fuss walk like this is the best way to take a deep breath and experience new things together. Whether they are nose down in a bush or rolling around in the muddiest puddle they can find, having a self-rewarding time together can put you both at ease and make your relationship stronger.

What works best for your dogs is entirely up to you and them – but if you’re not sure where to begin, take a look at the following steps and adapt them to suit the both of you!

Think about what they like most. Is it fishing around in streams or lakes? Sniffing in long grass? Inspecting the local bugs? It may even be digging down to some exciting underground smells!

This is the best time to plan where your next walk will be. We recommend looking for somewhere that is as natural as possible, it could be your nearest forest, beach or even your local playing fields. Just somewhere that feels free and relaxed.

Try to get here when it is as quiet as possible. Finding an undisturbed place and time can be difficult, but early and late hours, or remote locations are best to keep your dog’s nose undistracted and working.

Keep it fresh! Lots of dogs are not a fan of the rain, but once the skies have cleared, there are lots of new smells around (and less people) so this is a great chance to get out and give it a go.

If you’re feeling really brave, letting your dog roll in all sorts of muck is a completely normal behaviour. Ready the towel and be prepared to battle through a bath when you’re home.

A dog’s natural pace is much faster than our own. Giving them the space to feel free is the best first step to a successful Decompression Walk. We know that sometimes being off the lead can be a little daunting for you both, so using a ‘Long-Line’ can be a great way to give your dog more freedom to explore – even if they struggle with recall!

If you do use a longer leash, make sure to clip it to the back loop of a harness. This will prevent any sore spots if they reach the end of the leash at speed. Alternatively, if you want to use this as an opportunity to work on recall, you can find our top tips here.

Whilst behaviours can range dog-to-dog, spotting a good Decompression Walk is hugely rewarding. The first thing to note is that a high-energy dog will likely be constantly changing what they’re doing. They may be turning in new directions every few seconds, zig zagging and switching up their speed often. If you think back to a time where you have visited a friend’s house or garden with your dog, think about their behaviour here. It most likely has been a quick trot of exploration, with them seeming to be on several trails at once. This is exactly what we want! If your dog is a little lower on their energy scale, a relaxing stroll is just as good. They may stop more to investigate things, roll around an ordinary patch of grass, or snorkel in the nearest puddle.

Check their body language. A soft face and pant, relaxed body and loose tail are all good signs that your dog is happy exploring. One of the golden rules of a Decompression Walk is that we want no limitations for your dog (within safe parameters). Keep a long and loose lead and follow them wherever they choose to go. All dogs explore the world with their nose, so, no matter their energy levels, make sure you stop with them whilst they’re sniffing.

It’s completely normal for our dogs to investigate bugs and flies, it is also somewhat common to hear of dogs attempting to snack on bees, keep an eye on your dog near especially bright flowers.

If you’re planning to hunt through some long grass, make sure that you check yourself and your dog over afterwards for ticks. They can be quickly removed by your vet, though most will be able to do so at home.

Just like us when we have a long day in the office A shorter walk, whilst using their brain, can be just as tiring as a long run for your dog. Keep an eye on when they start to slow down and end it on a positive note with a big comfy bed in sight.

Management is about controlling what is going on, ie. The distraction around your dog. If you take Bruno to the park, and there are a million things more exciting than the piece of boring kibble in your hand, he is not going to listen to what you’re asking of him. Instead, setting him up to succeed with your instruction in a calm and focused environment will do the trick. Do not fear, we know you eventually want him to plop a perfect sit in the park, so once you have mastered the above, take a look at our blog on Distraction, Duration and Distance.

Anything antecedent is something that cues a reaction from your dog, it can be positive, like ‘Heel’ or it can be less so, like squirrel = chase. The key thing here with setting up for success is that you are 100% sure that you can override even a small negative, with a positive command – make sense?

An example would be, you know that your dog’s recall is so/so, but non-existent when he sees a horse. Instead of having him off the lead and hoping for the best, set him up for success beforehand by spending a few weeks or months working on his recall in a ‘managed’ environment. Use high value treads to override his drive and allow him to choose the best option. It can take a very long time and is certainly not a quick fix, but helping his emotions and reactions is the best way to see a confident and happy pup. In this case we would recommend popping a harness and a long-line lead on him before testing his recall out and about.

Just like us humans, all dogs have boundaries, and establishing these first is huge step to your dog’s confident strut. Whilst walking your dog on a lead may feel restrictive, be assured that dogs can often feel comforted knowing they are ‘attached’ to you too. Plus using this as an opportunity to teach them loose lead walking, or scenting is great fun – it can be just as exhausting as running; great preparation for that afternoon snooze!

THE LAW: Some areas have ‘dogs on lead’ rules, especially at certain times of year for conservation or farmland. However, there are plenty of spaces that allow your pups to have free roam and explore to their hearts content with their canine pals. Unfortunately, not all dogs are confident enough to do this and their boundaries must be respected. If in doubt, play it safe.

Think about your dog in the following scenarios.

1. Can you recall your dog from food or resources?
2. Can you recall your dog from play with another dog?
3. Can you recall your dog mid chase?
4. Can you recall your dog if they are running scared?

If the answer to any of these questions is ‘no’ then your dog should not be let off a lead in a public space. Don’t forget that with many nervous dogs out there, roads and dog theft, keeping them on a lead is the safest and most secure option.

Don’t forget to reward. Working through anxious situations with your pup can be quite time consuming for both of you, but don’t give up! The best advice we can give is to reward each little choice or great reaction with a high value treat.

If you’re introducing your new dog to an existing one, there are several things that you can do to build a positive association to each other. In this example, we are going to call our current dog Reggie and our new rescue dog Polly to make it all a little clearer. Firstly, both dogs are going to be a little on edge, it is a big change for both of them and whilst Polly will have to go through a whole life change, Reggie will also need some reassurance to not feel left out.

1. Designate a room in the house/flat for both dogs, let Reggie keep his usual favourite room and offer Polly a quieter and more secluded space, such as a spare bedroom. Get this all set up beforehand so it’s a calm transition for everyone. The room will need:

• Pee pads, just in case your new one is a little too overwhelmed to explore in the garden.
• A bed or open crate with lots of blankets.
• A bowl of water.
• One, or maybe two toys. Often, rescues have not experienced having their own toys and this is something to introduce a little later on.

2. Consider not bringing Reggie to come and collect Polly unless they have met before. This is a huge amount of change for little Polly, and she may direct her insecurities or nerves on to Reggie, best to give her a little more time to know you’re not so scary on your own.

1. Introduce Reggie and Polly outside of the house and garden – if possible, have your partner, family member or close friend collect Reggie from home and walk to meet you in a nearby park or large open space.
2. This part is very important. It may be hard but try not to greet Reggie and avoid encouraging the two dogs to greet each other, even if they seem happy. The more emotion you place here, the more the dogs will feed off that and the situation can become highly tense. Instead, continue your walk with both dogs on the lead until they’re much more comfortable and relaxed. If there seems to be any tension between the two, this is most likely due to uncertainty – don’t be discouraged! Place yourself and your friend between the pups to begin with, at a distance that they look to be comfortable and very slowly increase the space between them.

If at any point they seem to be uncomfortable, take it back a step and take it slower. It can take a long time, but this is the best way for them to learn that neither are that scary.

DO NOT FEED YOUR DOGS TOGETHER OR PRESENT FOOD AROUND THEM! RESUCE DOGS ARE OFTEN RESOURCE GUARDERS AND THIS CAN HAVE LONG TERM EFFECTS ON THEIR RELATIONSHIP.

1. Once you are home, how you manage the situation is entirely up to you. Every relationship is different, and you will be the best judge of this. To be extra safe, check out our blog on Anxious Body Language and look out for those signs.

2. If Polly or Reggie are incredibly nervous, hyperactive or reactive, best thing to do is keep them on a lead inside and work in separate areas to teach them how to settle. Don’t be discouraged, this is a really early stage, and most dogs will settle into each other’s company after a few days.

Remember – If you’re used to having Reggie sleep in the kitchen or laundry room, you may be tempted to get them both in there on the first night. This is something that should definitely be avoided as these two should not be left alone together for the first couple of weeks. Even the most gentle and caring dog has a threshold, so safety and extra precautions in the early days are essential. Whilst it can be seemingly overboard, any altercation between the two dogs can affect their relationship and set you back a long way, so, your carpet may have to suffer the wrath of some extra dog hair for a few days!

Due to travel times, restrictions, traffic and all things planning, we have the odd occasion where our dogs may arrive at a strange hour. On the plus side, this can give you that ‘on the way to the airport for an early flight’ excitement but can affect how you introduce your pups. In this case, it’s always best to stay safe and avoid any risk. Leaving two dogs in an enclosed space if they are not already friends is a big no-no. So opt for a spare bedroom set up for your new arrival. To build reassurance between you and both Reggie and Polly, it can be a good idea to have a your or your partner/ family member to take a sofa sleepover with your newcomer, and let Reggie have a cheeky snooze in the bed to not feel so left out. The next day, take them out to a quite park or a friends (large) garden to follow the steps above.

For the first few days, take a step back and try not to overwhelm your dogs. Essentially, it is the same thing as you suddenly moving in with a complete stranger who speaks a different language – you would like more space to yourself. Even little things like separate water bowls, not encouraging them to get on the sofa together, or even not trying to get them into a photo together. The general direction you should be looking for is giving them a chance to peacefully co-exist before becoming best friends.

It can take days, weeks or even months for the two to feel entirely comfortable with each other, and there are bound to be a few bumps along the road. Don’t feel discouraged and reach out to a force-free behaviourist if you need support. Our team is always on hand for advice to put you in touch with our incredible community of past adopters will be able to offer their stories and recommendations.