Choose your recall word – and stick to it! It may sound strange, but if you’re in a habit of telling your dog ‘no’ by using his name, they may already have a negative, or indifferent association to it. Think about choosing a different word for recall, such as ‘come’ or ‘heel’. What you want to do is associate the word with reward and so they come sprinting to your side at the sound of it.

Practice at home – start with simply using your word and giving your dog a treat every time you say it. Increase the distance, or even just call it out every now and then when your dog is distracted. The second your dog gives you attention, reward them straight away!

Try not to ask your dog for a second action just now. For example, if you call them and ask them to sit on their arrival, they may confuse the commands and you end up just reinforcing the ‘sit’ command. It’s definitely something you can introduce down the line but try and keep it simple to start with.

You might hear these 3 D’s knocking about when researching ways to train your dog. And they are mighty useful when It comes to learning a strong behaviour. Using a longline until you’re confident with their behaviour, start working on the same technique in new ways. This can be with distracting food on the floor, toys being squeaked by a helpful friend, or eventually around other dogs.

Remember that a faultless recall can take a long time, with some mishaps on the way. If your dog doesn’t come back instantly, or even at all, telling them off will just make them not want to come back more. If all else fails and your pup is running into the sunset towards something dangerous, chasing them will only turn into a game. Fight your instinct and run.

Management is about controlling what is going on, ie. The distraction around your dog. If you take Bruno to the park, and there are a million things more exciting than the piece of boring kibble in your hand, he is not going to listen to what you’re asking of him. Instead, setting him up to succeed with your instruction in a calm and focused environment will do the trick. Do not fear, we know you eventually want him to plop a perfect sit in the park, so once you have mastered the above, take a look at our blog on Distraction, Duration and Distance.

Anything antecedent is something that cues a reaction from your dog, it can be positive, like ‘Heel’ or it can be less so, like squirrel = chase. The key thing here with setting up for success is that you are 100% sure that you can override even a small negative, with a positive command – make sense?

An example would be, you know that your dog’s recall is so/so, but nonexistant when he sees a horse. Instead of having him off the lead and hoping for the best. Set him up for success beforehand by spending a few weeks or months working on his recall in a ‘managed’ environment. Use high value treads to override his drive and allow him to choose the best option. It can take a very long time and is certainly not. A quick fix, but helping his emotions and reactions is the best way to see a confident and happy pup. In this case we would recommend popping a harness and a long-line lead on him before testing his recall out and about.

Before we jump into the details, It’s a good time to mention that you won’t be able to just pop a harness on your dog if he hasn’t worn one before. It makes sense if you think about it, but if your dog has always worn a collar, having something that goes across their chest and under their arms is a pretty new experience. We always recommend harness training your dog as it’s so simple to do and builds their confidence massively!

1. Pop the harness on the floor and start by popping lots of treats around it (high reward toys are good for those fussy eaters)
2. Build up the association with the harness equalling great things, every time your dog touches it, give him a ‘good job’ and something tasty
3. Rest the harness on your dog and offer him some high reward
4. Keep rewarding him whilst you place it around his body – remove it straight away!
5. Repeat these steps whilst furthering the ‘dressing’ of your dog each time, if he starts to become unsure, take it back a step and offer him some calm reassurance
6. This can take time but keep going until your dog can’t wait to get it on! Start with a short walk to make sure it’s comfortable.

Every owner likes a different harness down to comfort, strength and style so it really is up to you where you go shopping. For nervous dog, having a ‘nervous’ harness is great for warning others to not approach or keep their dog away. If unsure of the sizes, we always recommend opting for the larger one as many of them are adjustable. If you are looking to support the charity further, we have a stunning range of WaHF harnesses to show your pup off!

You may stumble upon collars and harnesses that are designed to stop your dog from pulling here and there. Whilst popular amongst some dog owners, these collars can be problematic for behaviour. Dogs react to different stimulus by pulling and harnesses of this nature do not tackle the emotion behind the behaviour. They can be irritating, frustrating and sometimes even painful for the dogs that adorn them and for dogs with behavioural issues, they can interfere with their natural responses and worsen their behaviour. If you do walk your dogs on these, they will unfortunately never learn how to choose to walk in step with you and the second they are offered the freedom of a normal collar or harness, you will be back at square one. If you need help with your dog pulling on the lead, take a peek at our advice or consult a force free behaviourist.

Long line leashes are leads that come at around 10-15 meters long and are perfect for working on recall in a safe way. They offer your dog the freedom to run around, explore and return from longer distances without fear of losing them. They are generally easy to find and are beneficial for most dogs and trainers. It is important to note however that they do allow your dog to build up speed. Its advisable to only use them with a harness as they can damage your dog’s neck if he reaches the end of the line at 20 mph! The same goes for larger breeds, If your dog is know for lunging or running at high speeds, you can be injured or lose the end of the leash if you have little control. Just something to bear in mind!

We have all seen those videos where a dog has chewed up the sofa or broken into the bin whilst the owners are out. The owner comes in acting very suspicious and pans around to the dog who looks comically guilty. Unfortunately, it’s not all what it seems. If they are looking at you or an object and turning their head, you will usually be able to see the whites of their eyes – this is called ‘Whale Eye’. Whilst the usual internet video will tell you that they are feeling ‘guilty’ for something naughty, or an adorable puppy-dog eye, its actually a sign of high emotion. They are feeling stressed, fearful or potentially territorial. In some cases, whale eye can be a precursor for defensive aggression. If your pup is showing this behaviour, the best thing to do is calmly say a release word, such as ‘Okay’, stop what you’re doing and back off.

This can be a biggie, especially if you haven’t experienced it before. Whilst growling and teeth baring is mostly a precursor for a bite or defensive reaction, it can be misunderstood as a behaviour in itself. Generally, these two are your dog’s way of saying ‘I am extremely uncomfortable with what you are doing. I am getting really upset and I am warning you to stop’. The best and safest thing to do here is to listen to your dog and stop what you’re doing. We recommend that in this case, you look at working with a force-free, positive dog trainer who can help your dog learn that these things are not so scary. In the meantime, remember not to tell your dog off for these reactions. They will likely think they are being punished for the warning and may choose to skip it next time.

This can have two very opposite meanings and establishing the difference between these two can help your dog be their best confident self! If your dog is a big old center of attention and loves human contact, they may often roll over for a belly rub. In this case, their head is usually relaxed on the floor, their limbs are floppy and they’re stretching out for maximum scratches. However, if you’re greeted by a dog doing a similar action, but their head is held off the ground to look at you, their body is slightly more ridged and their a little more curled up, this is a submission and anxious behaviour. It can be really tricky not to hug, stroke or coo at them here, but the best thing for your relationship with them is to back off and give a little more space. Conflictingly, they may repeatedly follow you with this behaviour, its just their way of saying ‘please please please don’t hurt me, I’m so small and you’re so big’ so best just to let them work through this alone.

This is one that most often miss. It’s called an appeasement behaviour and its usually a subtle sign of stress and insecurity. We know that, just like us, dogs tend to do this naturally anyway, just keep an eye out for when it is out of place or at a weird time. For example, if you’re at the park and there is tons going on, and your highly energetic dog yawns, it probably doesn’t mean he is tired, more that he is feeling a bit overwhelmed at the situation. If this is the case, try not to over-fuss. Offer your pup some reassurance and maybe add some distance or distraction to the mix.

Just like us humans, all dogs have boundaries, and establishing these first is huge step to your dog’s confident strut. Whilst walking your dog on a leash may feel restrictive, be assured that dogs can often feel comforted knowing they are ‘attached’ to you too. Plus using this as an opportunity to teach them loose leash walking, or scenting is great fun – it can be just as exhausting as running; great preparation for that afternoon snooze! –
THE LAW: Some areas have ‘dogs on leash’ rules, especially at certain times of year for conservation or farmland. However, there are plenty of spaces that allow your pups to have free roam and explore to their hearts content with their canine pals. Unfortunately, not all dogs are confident enough to do this and their boundaries must be respected. If in doubt, play it safe.

Think about your dog in the following scenarios.

1. Can you recall your dog from food or resources?
2. Can you recall your dog from play with another dog?
3. Can you recall your dog mid chase?
4. Can you recall your dog if they are running scared?

If the answer to any of these questions is ‘no’ then your dog should not be let off a lead in a public space. Don’t forget that with many nervous dogs out there, roads and dog theft, keeping them on a lead is the safest and most secure option.

Don’t forget to reward. Working through anxious situations with your pup can be quite time consuming for both of you, but don’t give up! The best advice we can give is to reward each little choice or great reaction with a high value treat.

If you’re introducing your new dog to an existing one, there are several things that you can do to build a positive association to each other. In this example, we are going to call our current dog Reggie and our new rescue dog Polly to make it all a little clearer. Firstly, both dogs are going to be a little on edge, it is a big change for both of them and whilst Polly will have to go through a whole life change, Reggie will also need some reassurance to not feel left out.

1. Designate a room in the house/flat for both dogs, let Reggie keep his usual favourite room and offer Polly a quieter and more secluded space, such as a spare bedroom. Get this all set up beforehand so it’s a calm transition for everyone. The room will need:

• Pee pads, just in case your new one is a little too overwhelmed to explore in the garden.
• A bed or open crate with lots of blankets.
• A bowl of water.
• One, or maybe two toys. Often, rescues have not experienced having their own toys and this is something to introduce a little later on.

2. Consider not bringing Reggie to come and collect Polly unless they have met before. This is a huge amount of change for little Polly, and she may direct her insecurities or nerves on to Reggie, best to give her a little more time to know you’re not so scary on your own.

1. Introduce Reggie and Polly outside of the house and garden – if possible, have your partner, family member or close friend collect Reggie from home and walk to meet you in a nearby park or large open space.
2. This part is very important. It may be hard but try not to greet Reggie and avoid encouraging the two dogs to greet each other, even if they seem happy. The more emotion you place here, the more the dogs will feed off that and the situation can become highly tense. Instead, continue your walk with both dogs on the lead until they’re much more comfortable and relaxed. If there seems to be any tension between the two, this is most likely due to uncertainty – don’t be discouraged! Place yourself and your friend between the pups to begin with, at a distance that they look to be comfortable and very slowly increase the space between them.

If at any point they seem to be uncomfortable, take it back a step and take it slower. It can take a long time, but this is the best way for them to learn that neither are that scary.

DO NOT FEED YOUR DOGS TOGETHER OR PRESENT FOOD AROUND THEM! RESUCE DOGS ARE OFTEN RESOURCE GUARDERS AND THIS CAN HAVE LONG TERM EFFECTS ON THEIR RELATIONSHIP.

1. Once you are home, how you manage the situation is entirely up to you. Every relationship is different, and you will be the best judge of this. To be extra safe, check out our blog on Anxious Body Language and look out for those signs.

2. If Polly or Reggie are incredibly nervous, hyperactive or reactive, best thing to do is keep them on a lead inside and work in separate areas to teach them how to settle. Don’t be discouraged, this is a really early stage, and most dogs will settle into each other’s company after a few days.

Remember – If you’re used to having Reggie sleep in the kitchen or laundry room, you may be tempted to get them both in there on the first night. This is something that should definitely be avoided as these two should not be left alone together for the first couple of weeks. Even the most gentle and caring dog has a threshold, so safety and extra precautions in the early days are essential. Whilst it can be seemingly overboard, any altercation between the two dogs can affect their relationship and set you back a long way, so, your carpet may have to suffer the wrath of some extra dog hair for a few days!

Due to travel times, restrictions, traffic and all things planning, we have the odd occasion where our dogs may arrive at a strange hour. On the plus side, this can give you that ‘on the way to the airport for an early flight’ excitement but can affect how you introduce your pups. In this case, it’s always best to stay safe and avoid any risk. Leaving two dogs in an enclosed space if they are not already friends is a big no-no. So opt for a spare bedroom set up for your new arrival. To build reassurance between you and both Reggie and Polly, it can be a good idea to have a your or your partner/ family member to take a sofa sleepover with your newcomer, and let Reggie have a cheeky snooze in the bed to not feel so left out. The next day, take them out to a quite park or a friends (large) garden to follow the steps above.

For the first few days, take a step back and try not to overwhelm your dogs. Essentially, it is the same thing as you suddenly moving in with a complete stranger who speaks a different language – you would like more space to yourself. Even little things like separate water bowls, not encouraging them to get on the sofa together, or even not trying to get them into a photo together. The general direction you should be looking for is giving them a chance to peacefully co-exist before becoming best friends.

It can take days, weeks or even months for the two to feel entirely comfortable with each other, and there are bound to be a few bumps along the road. Don’t feel discouraged and reach out to a force-free behaviourist if you need support. Our team is always on hand for advice to put you in touch with our incredible community of past adopters will be able to offer their stories and recommendations.

Starting off at home is the key to setting your dog up for success. Make sure to stay consistent and patient with rewarding your dog when they do a great job!

• Start at home! Teaching your dog to settle at home is really setting them up for success. Begin with asking them to lie down on their bed and dropping treats on to it to encourage them to stay there. 
• Pick a blanket or bed that is easy to carry with you to the pub – dogs translate words and actions on to specific objects so may find it tricky if you use a new bed. 
• Consistency here is very important. Introduce a command such as “Settle” and start increasing the time and your distance to the bed. This is great progress whilst all the time showing them that the best things happen whilst they are lying here!

When learning new behaviours, think of the 3 D’s – Distraction, Distance and Duration. Increasing these slowly as you work through this command will make it easier to translate to a real life setting!

• Start small. With reservation lengths and crowds hugely limited, use this as an opportunity to take your dog to the pub and slowly desensitise them to the atmosphere.  
• Don’t forget to read their body language. If your dog is stressed, anxious or struggles to settle, keeping them in this environment can cause more issues in future. Take a step back and start smaller.
• Training for too long can cause your dog to get bored and frustrated. Working in 5 minute sessions with loads of reward can keep this journey super exciting!

Currently we are limited to groups of 6 and no standing room. This is a good time to start the desensitisation to a real world scenario. People are required to keep their distance and not mingle which is ideal for keeping your pups attention.

• When it comes to lockdown ending, begin by taking your dog to pubs and restaurants on the Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday. These are much quieter than the rest of the week and gives your dog an opportunity to understand the environment without all the usual commotion.
• Remember that blanket? Take the same blanket you use at home to the pub. It may be a burden to carry to begin with but it lets your dog know that its ok to have a kip here!
• End on a positive. Don’t wait until your pooch is over-tired, frustrated and desperate for a wee before you go. This can negatively impact their associations with the place, and teach them that they have to become restless to leave. Wait until they’re all tuckered out and nice and relaxed. Give them a big treat and take them home for a well deserved cuddle

Above all, we’re big advocates of going at your dog’s pace whenever it comes to training. While some dogs will pick up behaviours super easily, they might take longer to adjust to more substantial changes and vice versa. As we move out of lockdown, there’s sure to be some substantial changes on the horizon so patience and understanding are set to be more important than ever.

And don’t forget to be kind to yourself! There’s no rush to tick training off the list, the most important thing is that you and your dog can navigate the government’s ‘roadmap to normality’ with confidence.

`We hope this has been helpful and has perhaps highlighted some areas you might’ve not yet considered – if you’ve got your own tips or experiences to share, head to Instagram, Facebook or Twitter to let us know!

Understanding your dogs thoughts is important to making sure they are happy and confident. Listen to their behaviours, are they stressed or anxious? Are they overconfident or unruly? Setting boundaries for yourself and your dog is a good start to knowing the rules!

• Remember that it’s ok for your dog to decide not to initially interact with your friends and family. Allowing them some quiet space that they can feel safe in and working to get them settled here in the days leading up to a visit can encourage maximum comfort! This area will be a sign of your dog’s boundaries, and make sure everyone knows not to interact with them here!  

• Much like us, dogs would rather not do their ‘business’ too close to people they are unfamiliar with. They will often mentally label places as either sleep, play, or potty and overlapping these can become a little confusing at first. We would recommend either popping them out for a little walk every few hours or allowing them the use of a puppy pad (if they understand the dynamics, that is!). With time, this is something that can be overcome in a calm and relaxed setting. 

Most of us can talk of experiences where our dog has surprised us with a shocking reaction over something. Its not unusual and can be a sign that they are uncomfortable. If your dog reacts by barking, growling or rolling on their back, this is usually a sign of fear. Give them some space and try not to tell them off. It can be tricky and embarrassing  in the moment but offering a positive alternative  to their behaviour will help them cope in future.

• For those of us with more noise sensitive dogs, the addition of up to five new voices can be daunting. Having your guests arriving at different times can work wonderfully to allow your pup time to familiarise themselves with these new sounds. Ensuring your friends and family talk calmy and slowly to begin with can also add a boost of confidence.   

• If your dog does react vocally to strangers coming into the house, it’s important to remember that they are not being naughty – it’s just their way of showing they are feeling threatened. Try not to tell them off and instead, offer them something high value, like a special toy or tasty snack. It may feel counterproductive at first, but they will soon learn that new people = the best reward!  

Above all, we’re big advocates of going at your dog’s pace whenever it comes to training. While some dogs will pick up tricks super easily, they might take longer to adjust to more substantial changes and vice versa. As we move out of lockdown, there’s sure to be some substantial changes on the horizon so patience and understanding are set to be more important than ever.

And don’t forget to be kind to yourself! There’s no rush to tick training off the list, the most important thing is that you and your dog can navigate the government’s ‘roadmap to normality’ with confidence.

We hope this has been helpful and has perhaps highlighted some areas you might’ve not yet considered – if you’ve got your own tips or experiences to share, head to Instagram, Facebook or Twitter to let us know!

Some owners are already aware that their dog suffers with separation anxiety. Some maybe haven’t had an opportunity to leave their dog alone for a longer period of time. Knowing where to start will help you on the road to a confident dog. We don’t want any pups to feel left out so these tips can work across the board, just remember to adjust your timings depending on their comfort levels.  

• Set yourself up for success, know your dogs habits and reactions, favourite foods and favourite room in the house. Having a system will make it easier for your dog to cope with you popping out.
• Be it your jangling keys, sitting on the bottom step to tie your laces, or calling out ‘goodbye’, there will be something your dog associates with you leaving. Look out for any sudden interest or nervous behaviour when doing this and change your routine!

Begin to normalise your dog being alone. Even just for five minutes as you pop around the corner, your dog will leave that you’re back in no time at all and it really wasn’t so scary!

• If your pup hasn’t been left at all, or has developed anxiety through lockdown, begin with the basics and just go out for five or ten minutes. Begin to gently work your way up the clock each time.
• If you return home and your dog has done their business on the floor, or decided to make some newspaper confetti, drop the time back to something they can manage.
• Do not punish your dog for any destroying behaviour or using the loo inside. Surprisingly, they will not understand it and instead they will add more emotion onto the whole scenario and make it escalate further. Just remember that they have done this out of anxiety.

Getting your dog to pay attention to something is much easier said than done, but it is possible. Try not to ‘tire’ your dog out by taking them on a monstrous walk beforehand. Whilst we do expect all dogs to have their recommended exercise per day, walks designed to exhaust your dog will only lead to building an athlete that doesn’t want to sleep.

• Think about a really long day you have had at the office. You were exhausted afterwards, yes? But you didn’t do any exercise? The same thing works well for dogs, giving them enough mental stimulation to tire them out and take their mind off being alone
• Offer them something that they love before you leave so they are occupied in this time. Preferably something that can occupy their time for a little longer. Snuffle Mats, Kongs and Licki Mats are great for this.
• For non-foodie dogs, you can reserve a special toy that only comes out when you play the best games with it. This will make the toy high reward and occupy your dog with positive experiencesBe aware of leaving your dog with anything that can be chewed up or eaten. Rawhide bones will become soft and break apart, and Licki mats can be chewed up by destructive pups! 

Above all, we’re big advocates of going at your dog’s pace whenever it comes to training. While some dogs will pick up tricks super easily, they might take longer to adjust to more substantial changes and vice versa. As we move out of lockdown, there’s sure to be some substantial changes on the horizon so patience and understanding are set to be more important than ever.

And don’t forget to be kind to yourself! There’s no rush to tick training off the list, the most important thing is that you and your dog can navigate the government’s ‘roadmap to normality’ with confidence.

We hope this has been helpful and has perhaps highlighted some areas you might’ve not yet considered – if you’ve got your own tips or experiences to share, head to Instagram, Facebook or Twitter to let us know!